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Thursday, March 4, 2010

Vietnamese recipe: Ca Kho To (Catfish in Caramel Sauce)

Pho (beef noodle soup) may be the most popular Vietnamese dish around the world.  It truly is great food, and I'm glad many have come to love it.  Pho, however, is not the most commonly eaten dish in Vietnamese households.  It requires a lot of time and patience.  It's great for having a bunch of people over at your house now and then. To eat a single bowl as an individual, it's best to visit a restaurant that can keep a large pot of it going all day.

If not Pho, what is most commonly made at home?  One dish is Ca Kho To.  In English, you can call it "clay pot catfish" or "braised fish in caramelized sauce" - something like that.  It's very common in southern Vietnam, where I was born.  It's a rich and flavorful dish, featuring a unique sweet and salty sauce.  I call Ca Kho To the Meatloaf of southern Vietnamese cooking - that yummy dish that Mom always made when you were growing up.  Even today, I miss my mom's cooking.  But I recently realized that I have spent more years in my life living away from home than living at home.  Therefore I should probably learn how to make the food I loved from Mom's kitchen.  Ca Kho To is #1!

So here's what I have learned so far about making Ca Kho To.  I made some last night, in fact.  It was really yummy, to my surprise :)  Now before you get scared about this being too complex or fancy, please don't think it is!  I am not a fancy chef, nor do I have the patience to spend a lot of time cooking.  Think of this recipe a quick-and-dirty way to make food while retaining the essence of what makes it good.  I think I spent under 30 minutes making this (well maybe 45 as I let it simmer on the stove while I read my e-mail).

1) Preparation.  The first thing you'll need is the fish.  Although many fishes will do, you'll typically see catfish being used.  It's thick enough to braise (without falling apart), and it's fatty enough to suck in all the flavor.  Go to your fish market and get a fish.  Get a real fish with bones, not a fillet.  Fillets are wussy; bones help it with flavor!  I usually get a fish between 2-3lbs.  If your fish monger is willing, have them cut it up into inch-wide center cut steaks (you can leave the tail section longer).  Or you can do that at home - it's a good excuse to invest in a cleaver for your kitchen :)  Some recipes will tell you only to use the center steaks (and use the rest of other dishes like Canh Chua).  These sections are indeed the best tasting and best looking, but you can use the whole fish too.  I always use it all - once again, I'm the lazy cook type.

The name of the dish says "clay pot" but you really don't need one. Clay pots are sexy, so I wouldn't discourage you from getting one. But I have limited cupboard space, so I have remained lean with pots and pans.  Any thick skillet or saucepan will do, as long as it can hold some sauce.  Pour some oil on the pot and lay the fish on it. 

2) The sauce.  The magic with Ca Kho To is the next phase - making the sauce.  If you've never had it, it would be hard to describe.  Sweet, salty, rich.  But once you've had it, you'll always remember it!  The main ingredients you'll need are simply fish sauce and sugar.  If you want to make any Vietnamese food, get yourself a bottle of fish sauce (Nuoc Mam) at an Asian grocer.  It's used everywhere!  Even in Thai cooking too.  You'll also want some garlic, shallots, black pepper, and chili peppers for seasoning.  I'll break this phase into three steps.

2a) Fish sauce and sugar.  Mix the fish sauce and sugar in a bowl.  I used about 1/2 cup of fish sauce and nearly that much sugar.  It will depend on how much fish you have and how much sauce you like.  Various people will debate about the right proportion.  It's somewhere between 1:1 fish sauce to sugar, or 4:3.  You'll have to taste test to see what tastes right to you.

2b) Caramel sauce.  The other sauce to mix in is called Nuoc Mau ("colored water") - the caramel sauce.  It's really just sugar and water, cooked in a way that the sugar caramelizes into this gooey, molasses-like stuff.  This blog called Wandering Chopsticks shows you how how to make Nuoc Mao.  The nice thing is that you can make this once and use it forever.  My batch of Nuoc Mau was made like a year ago and sits in a small jar in my pantry.  If you're too lazy, you can try a bottle of Kecap Manis (Indonesian sweet soy sauce) instead.  Either way, you only need enough to make the sauce dark looking and a little thicker.

2c) Seasonings.  Throw some garlic, shallots, black pepper, and chili peppers in your bowl and stir.  Those proportions are up to you.  I prefer it heavy on black pepper.  In fact, I use whole pepper balls rather than ground peppers with this dish.  Ca Kho To is not typically a spicy dish.  I love spicy food though, so I like it heavy with chili peppers too.  Last night I went with fresh jalapenos instead of chili peppers.  Once the sauce is ready, pour it over the fish.  If you have time, let it marinate.  Flip the fish so the sauce can marinate on all sides.

3) Cook the fish.  Set the stove to high for a few minutes.  You'll see the sauce boil a bit.  We're searing the fish now.  Flip it over to cook the other side.  You'll see that the fish is cooked because it looks white and a little soft, rather than reddish-pink.  After a few minutes, turn the heat down to med-low.  Cover the pot.  Let it simmer for 20-30 minutes.  The sauce will reduce a bit, with the end result being a thick, rich sauce.  You'll want to check on the fish occasionally, to make sure the sauce hasn't reduced too much and to flip the fish over a couple times.  Add water (but not too much) if it has gotten too dry.  You can also add more fish sauce or sugar if the taste is off at this point.

4) Voila!  You have finished cooking Ca Kho To!  Put the fish and sauce in a bowl.  Serve it with white rice, and don't forget to pour the sauce on your rice for a very rich taste.  Vietnamese meals are usually very balanced.  Since this is a salty dish, people will often contrast it with something sour, and/or with a vegetable dish.  The most popular combo is Ca Kho To with Canh Chua - a sweet & sour soup that is also made with catfish.  A quick combo would be to steam some broccoli, asparagus, or cai lan (Chinese broccoli). Enjoy your homestyle Vietnamese meal!


It has been a great experience and accomplishment for me to learn Ca Kho To. Many thanks to my mom for helping me learn her recipe, and of course, for many years of being an awesome mom! To philosophize a bit, I wonder how many 1st/2nd generation Vietnamese will end up learning to cook traditional dishes like this. Probably yes in highly ethnic areas like Orange County, Houston, or San Jose. But will it one day become a lasagna that many Americans can make in their own homes, regardless of their ethnic background? Or will it just be relegated to restaurant fare? Only time will tell.

Come to the Discopalace Blog to see this article and more!

Thursday, February 25, 2010

"Stuff White People Like"

http://stuffwhitepeoplelike.com/

Haha, a very funny blog!  Lots of social commentary.  Warning: there's a bit of hate within (which, you know, leads to the Dark Side).  But it's pretty darn hi-larious anyways.  They turned it into a book too!

"They love nothing better than sipping free-trade gourmet coffee, leafing through the Sunday New York Times, and listening to David Sedaris on NPR (ideally all at the same time). Apple products, indie music, food co-ops, and vintage T-shirts make them weak in the knees....
"You know who they are: They’re white people. And they’re here, and you’re gonna have to deal. Fortunately, here’s a book that investigates, explains, and offers advice for finding social success with the Caucasian persuasion. So lose yourself in the ultimate guide (featuring brand-new entries and extras!) to the unbearable whiteness of being."
Some favorites:
  • Taking a year off
  • Children's games as adults
  • Having gay friends
  • Standing still at concerts
  • Whole Foods and grocery co-ops
  • Here's the whole list
It's a bit of a misnomer, however, that the blog is about "white people."  It's doesn't seem to be about "Joe the Plumber" white people.  Not European white people either.  It's more like "Kylie the hipster" white people or "Chad the Trixie's boyfriend" white people (Trixie is a Chicago term).  Maybe it's more appropriately called "white collar Americans" or "upwardly mobile Americans."  I think they can be of Asian, African, or Latino descent too, as long as you're sufficiently assimilated (e.g., becoming a Twinkie for Asians).  I admit to being guilty of liking some of this stuff myself: sushi, microbrews, and threatening to move to Canada :(

Saturday, February 20, 2010

Dude... uh why's your name spelled differently than it sounds??

That's what an Indian guy asked me at work today (Friday).  He meant no harm; it was curiosity.  In fact, it's not the first time this question has been asked.  Some you know how to pronounce it because I've told you.  Others know it because they know some other Vietnamese person with Nguyen in their name ("oh yeah, your name looks like the same name as this guy from work...").

The short explanation is that my name is pronounced exactly as it should be pronounced - in Vietnamese.  The twist is that the Vietnamese language uses different phonetics than English (so does French, Spanish, German, etc.).  You shouldn't apply English phonetics to it; that's where you go wrong.  The same applies elsewhere - the word "yo" in English would be pronounced "jo" by a Spanish speaker, and the French pronunciation of "bus" would sound like how we say the word "boost." 

I wonder how many of you know the long explanation.  Even you fellow Viets.  I'll write it here.  It has to do the White Man from Europe and his colonial ways......

Let me start with a little history lesson. Vietnam's history dates back to the first millenium BCE (yes, a bit before the 1960's).  The history is rather hazy during this period.  What we do know is that over time, various groups of southern Chinese people settled the Red River delta area (where present-day Hanoi is located).  They became known as Viet people.  In 258 BCE, they established a new kingdom called Au Lac.  The Chinese were the big kids on the block, and they weren't so keen on Viet people establishing their own nation.  Who would, ya know?  Why not take it over for yourself?  Pho shizzo!  In 207 BCE, a Chinese general conquered Au Lac, proclaiming the kingdom his own.  He renamed it as Nam Viet, which essentially means "the Viets in the South."  The Chinese Han Dynasty rulers still didn't like this idea of an independent nation though.  They invaded, and Nam Viet became a province of China in 111 BCE.  It remained a Chinese province for a thousand years.  That's probably how my people learned Kung Fu.

The majority of Vietnam's years were spent as a under the rule of a major power.  First it was the Chinese.  Then the French, from 1887-1954.  Then it was fighting the threat of the Communists or Americans, depending on how you spin it.  Vietnam is a nation of oppressed people who have fought for their independence for over two thousand years.

Ok, what does all this history have to do with language?  Sorry, I had to give you some (long-winded) context. Despite the rule of foreign powers, the Viet people, culture, and language have remained distinct the whole time.  The Vietnamese spoken language was present in Au Lac, during the Chinese years, and of course today.  I'm sure things have evolved, and the language has inherited words from other languages (especially Chinese).  Linguists call it a Mon-Khmer language, a monosyllabic language that is similar to what is spoken in present-day Laos or Cambodia.

Although spoken Vietnamese has been intact, what's interesting is the written Vietnamese language.  From what I can tell (with my mucho extensive research haha), it doesn't look like there was ever a original written Vietnamese language.  Maybe it had to do with Au Lac only lasting 50 years.  When the Chinese took over, they pretty much mandated the use of Chinese characters for everything (and "Han-Viet" was spoken for official purposes).  A modified version of Chinese script called Chu nom was created.  I'm guessing that this is the script used on this stone stele photo to the right.  Thus the first written form of the Vietnamese language was actually Chinese!  Chu nom was used from the Chinese times all the way til the early 20th century. 

Let's fast-forward a little and introduce the White Man.  The Vietnamese finally kicked out the Chinese 938 CE.  Following this, Vietnam enjoyed about a thousand years of autonomous rule by several dynasties of rulers.  In the 17th Century CE, as you probably know, the major European powers decided to compete for power by colonizing the rest of the world.  One of their major weapons was missionaries, spreading the word of God and the influence of the Catholic Church.  This happened in Vietnam too.  A couple Portuguese missionaries came up with a spelling system that uses Roman characters (abcdefg) to represent what they heard in spoken Vietnamese.  Makes sense, right?  Gotta figure out a way to understand the words used by the primitive, godless, native folk.  So... if you had to blame particular White Men, blame these two dudes.  Who in their right mind, Portuguese or not, would come up with "Nguyen" as a spelling??  Who would use multiple accent marks on top of a single letter?? These guys did.  But it wasn't just their fault.  They probably just scribbled down a few notes for their own benefit.  But wait, there's more!  Later on, some French dude named Alexandre de Rhodes expanded upon this system.  We should blame him as much as the Portuguese.  Rhodes created a Vietnamese dictionary, then he transcribed a Bible using this script.  The armies of missionaries used this Romanized system and Vietnamese Bible to convert people to Christianity. Today 10+% of Vietnamese are Catholic, including my family. The photo on the left is the Notre Dame Cathedral in Saigon.

For a couple hundred years, the Romanized script was used in a limited fashion - mostly for religious purposes. The French came in the 19th Century.  At first, I'm sure it was friendly. Check out our fabulous clothing and outrageous accents!  Let's trade, let's learn about each other, let's meet your lovely women!  And pass the opium please.  The Vietnamese language picked up some cool French words too.  Coffee is "cafe" in French and "ca phe" in Vietnamese.  A cup is "tasse" in French and "tat" in Vietnamese.  A shirt is "chemise" in French and "so mi" in Vietnamese.  Neat eh?  We picked up some artistic and architectural influences too.  The photo to the left is City Hall in Saigon.  Looks slightly French, no?  Btw, you should check out the French movie Indochine, if you want a glimpse of this period.


After a while, it became rather clear that the French wanted more than just to trade.  Maybe it was the gunships opening fire (under the direct orders of - guess who - Napoleon Bonaparte).  It took them about 30 years, but the French finally won in 1887.  The whole region of present-day Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia became known as French Indochina.  Everything became French-ified.  The photo on the right is Da Lat, a lovely hillside resort town that was built by the French.  The Romanized script, now known as Quoc Ngu, came to life during this period.  In 1910, Quoc Ngu became the official written language of the country.  Bye bye Chinese characters!  This script certainly helped the French establish more control and assimilate better.  My dad, who grew up during the late French period, went to a French-speaking school and learned history about "us" - the French, and "them" - colonies like Vietnam.  Vietnam has used the Quoc Ngu script ever since. 

In spite of the unfortunate means by which the French took power, many people today - including my parents - view the switch to Roman characters as being positive.  Vietnam had always had low literacy rates.  The French colonization efforts and use of Romanized script dramatically improved education and literacy in Vietnam.  I would certainly be more illiterate in Vietnamese today if I had to learn Chinese characters. 

Now you know how Vietnamese is spoken in this funny sing-song sort of language but is spelled using Roman characters and employs a different phonetic system.  I.e., why my name doesn't sound like it's spelled, although it really does sound like it's spelled if you understood Quoc Ngu.  I just with those Portuguese missionary dudes made it even simpler.  It also feels a bit sad knowing that your language never had its own original written form, since its two written forms came from foreign occupiers.

You probably have other questions, like "why is your first name like other people's last names?"  And "why is everyone named Nguyen?"  And "why is it such a sing-song sort of language?"  I'll get to those some other time.  For now, I must go to bed.

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Sonnet Banh Mi (The Vietnamese Sandwich)

Shall I compare you to sandwich Subway?
You are more crisp, you are more full of flavor
I dream of having you to taste each day
Each bite is like the gods did me a favor
The crunch of bread, the soft warm dough inside
Pate ambrosia, so rich, so thick, so fine
Cold meats, a-sliced, leaving me all tongue-tied
The sweet, the spicy, the pleasure is all mine
I've searched the world for every sign of you
You are so rare, untouched by almost all
If I were rich, there's one thing I would do
I'd sell you in a shop in every mall
You're pure delight, you fill my soul with glee
My life's last wish would be a bite of thee

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Lots of website updates, plus the return of the blog!

Hi all,

After a long hiatus full of laziness, I decided to update discopalace.com again.  You'll see lots of updates to the photos section especially.  I also decided to bring back the blog from blogspot.  Stay tuned for blog entries, assuming I can come up with something interesting to talk about :)

Btw, does anyone know how to import Yelp reviews onto your blog?

http://discopalace.com

http://discopalace-blog.blogspot.com

Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Justine and Nick's photoshoot

 

Last weekend, I did a photo shoot for my friends Justine and Nick. They are celebrating an anniversary and wanted some pictures of themselves together. They also wanted the photos to be highlighted by scenic Chicago as a backdrop. Aren’t they just a lovely couple? :)

Click the photo above for the slideshow, or here for the pics on Flickr:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/discopalace/sets/72157622008873093/

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Grand Tetons at Jackson Lake


I just noticed this photo on my hard drive. I had not posted it online before. The original photo was a bit washed out due to haze, so I probably ignored it.

Now that I've discovered the magic of HDR processing, I find that I can do a lot more to photos that were originally not very good. In this case, I was able to preserve the lightness and detail of the mountains yet apply a darker exposure to the sky and lake. This gives you a scene which much better contrast - no haze at all. Et voila - not a bad shot now! :)